CALF_News_April_May_2019

46 CALF News • April | May 2019 • www.calfnews.net By Kathleen Hennessy Contributing Editor  CALF BEEF REVIEW Durant's Phoenix, Ariz. Where’s the Really Exceptional D urant’s is an iconic steakhouse on Central Avenue in downtown Phoenix. You can’t miss it; it’s a pink build- ing with red awnings. It was opened in July 1950 by Jack Durant,“Mr. Baseball.” There are many fantastic stories about Jack Durant – hit man, casino boss, cathouse manager and how many marriages? The restaurant has been the home of many of the city’s power brokers over the years, and is said to be the place where many a deal was made or a murder planned. Durant’s longevity isn’t based on legend alone, though. It’s still one of the best spots in town, and the steaks are to die for. Three of us decided to try the steaks and prime rib at Durant’s. We walked in the preferred entrance, the back door. We were greeted by the friendly kitchen staff and mouth- watering aromas. As our eyes adjusted to the dim lighting inside the dining room, we were reminded of Mad Men or the Sopranos . Red leather booths and red-flocked paper line the walls. You’d expect a cloud of smoke and diners with cigarette holders. The professional waiters wear white shirts, black tuxedo vests and bow ties. The bar and restaurant were packed, with no avail- able seating on a Thursday night. Our table was not quite ready so we headed to the bar to have a signature martini and a couple of lemon drops. Deli- cious. They were as good as we’d heard. When our table was ready, we were greeted by the charm- ing and playful Lonnie. He was the perfect blend of attentive and patient. He was knowledgeable and his suggestions were help- ful. We wanted to try as many menu items as we could, which was a dif- ficult decision because all the options sounded amazing. We nibbled the crudités – green onions, black olives, carrots and radishes – while we made our dinner selections. For starters, we went with the shrimp cocktail. Those were some giant shrimp, and the cocktail sauce was blended with atomic horseradish that cleared our sinuses right up. We also tried a dozen of the Bluepoint oysters. While these semi-wild oysters are not my food of choice, my husband loved them and would have probably ordered another dozen if we hadn’t had a food list the length of my arm. While we ate our starters, Lonnie brought over the warm, sliced bread sitting in onion, leek and garlic oil. My sister decided to try the soup of the day, steak chili. It was full flavored and could have been a main course. Not on the menu, but at Lonnie’s suggestion, she ordered the vegetable medley (for those of you who prefer more plant food) to go with her 8-ounce filet mignon. My sister is a slim girl and thought maybe 8 ounces was too much food for her. I’m pretty sure there was only a bite or two left on her plate. My husband chose a wedge salad and au gratin potatoes to go with his bone-in ribeye. You’ve never seen a more satisfied face. He loved it all and would have it again next time except there are other things he’d like to try. I had the 14-ounce New York strip. It was perfectly cooked for me. I finished a good por- tion of it, but along with my house salad, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, sautéed mushrooms and spinach, I had to stop. Our dinner was finished with some coffee and, courtesy of Lonnie, an enormous strawberry shortcake that had six layers of strawberries, cake, whipped cream and chocolate shavings. Unbelievable. Of course, we had to ask for a doggie bag to take all remainders home with us. We got a great surprise when we got home; Lonnie had included a fresh loaf of the bread with the onion, leak and garlic oil. The whole Durant’s experience is absolutely worth the money. The food is delicious, and the restaurant’s ambience and service added to the experience.We would happily return and recom- mend that anyone in the area should visit Durant’s. 

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