By Linda L. Lockwood Contributing Editor
I worked in downtown St. Louis for more than 25 years but, since leaving the downtown workplace, I don’t often find a reason to go there. Carmine’s Steak House on 4th Street is the exception. Carmine’s is within walking distance of both the Jefferson National Expansion, aka The Gateway Arch, and the Historic Old Courthouse where the Dred Scott decision was handed down. Also close by is the Old Cathedral which, along with the Courthouse, survived the Fire of 1849. (We were there with the History Guy, so it seems appropriate to mention this bit of St. Louis history.)
Carmine’s is a lovely venue with gorgeous Chihuly glass accenting the rich wood paneling, making Carmine’s feel like a proper steak house. I visited there with family and friends recently and was reminded why I continue to like the establishment. Owner Michael Lombardo greeted us at the door and was quick to share with us that they have been at this location for 25 years, and he named the restaurant after his father.
Our conversation soon turned to beef, and we learned that they served Hereford beef that they source from local butcher Kern Meat Company. But, Lombardo added, the trick is in the aging – steaks are aged 45 days in a small, controlled program and all are hand cut. He also shared with us that they serve USDA Prime strip steaks and Choice filets. It was a learning experience for me to hear the benefits of the cuts and the strength of the Hereford cattle, likely information that many readers already know but was new to me.
The meal did not disappoint. Our server, Crystal, was attentive and helpful but never overbearing. Salads arrived quickly. My wedge salad was nearly a meal on its own with thick chunks of bacon and a generous amount of gorgonzola cheese.
The steaks were cooked to perfection and served with Carmine’s Steak Butter. My husband’s 8-ounce filet in a mushroom bourbon glaze was fork-tender and beautifully glazed. The History Guy ordered the 14-ounce Prime New York strip steak, which was enough for two meals and, like the filet, was perfectly prepared. The sides were excellent. While the carrots were delicious, the signature creamy mushroom risotto was the star of the sides in my opinion.
Sometimes a steak house may fall short with seafood selections, but that was not the case at Carmine’s. We started the evening with lightly breaded and very tender frog legs, sauteed in garlic butter (our niece is always excited to try something new) and shrimp with andouille sausage over dirty rice with a well-balanced Cajun sauce that did not overpower the delicate flavor of the shrimp. The evening seafood special was grilled grouper with a cranberry and lemon sauce, paired with shrimp. Just like the steak, the grouper was perfectly prepared. The jumbo stuffed shrimp scampi was gorgeous and looked almost the size of lobster tails. Proof that you can get great seafood in the Midwest.
In addition to visiting with the owner, we were introduced to Chef Michael Green. Michael has been at Carmine’s for 16 years, starting as a dishwasher and progressing from there to his current position as chef. We all agreed that he learned well and had cooked a beautiful meal for us.
Stories continued around the dessert course. While we didn’t order the cheesecake, we learned how to best slice a cheesecake. The Tiramisu is a special family recipe and was exquisitely served, as was the decadent tuxedo cake. Michael’s daughter is the creator of the desserts, and our third selection was a luxurious lemon layer cake. Fortunately, there were to-go boxes.
Although the food was perfectly prepared, and we experienced flawless service, we all agreed that the stories of the establishment were a highlight – family that worked together honoring a father and carrying on a St. Louis restaurant tradition. Meeting Michael Green made it all the more special. It was a lovely evening.
