By Lance Geiger, Contributing Editor
Haggis, a “pudding” made of sheep offal mixed with oats and onions, is seen by many to be the national food of Scotland. That, and the funny, fuzzy breed of cattle called Scottish Highland might make you think that Scotland is not the place for really exceptional beef. But, then again, Aberdeen is in Scotland, as is the breed named after that city and shire, Aberdeen Angus. As the Telegraph newspaper, “A remarkable three-quarters of Scotland’s land mass is used for agricultural production, and a large part of that is idyllic beef farming country.”
That is to say, in among the castles, narrow alleys called “closes” and shops selling kilts, in Scotland you can get a really good steak.
Edinburgh is the capital and most populous city in Scotland. The ancient city, founded before the seventh century A.D., is today a friendly and bustling city that maintains its medieval charm. The streets are unusually narrow, a remnant of medieval times when citizens had to crowd within the city walls to protect themselves from invading Englishmen. But there is one famously wide street in the middle of the old city – the Royal Mile. The Mile, although actually 1.13 miles long, dates back at least to the 12th century, and runs between Edinburgh Castle, the imposing fortress perched high upon the volcanic plug called “castle rock,” and Holyrood Palace, the official residence of the British Monarch in Scotland.
The Royal Mile is a popular tourist destination, dotted with shops selling everything Scottish as well as public houses, attractions and, of course, fine restaurants, many claiming to offer the “best Haggis in Scotland.” Among those is Luckenbooths, at 329 High Street, in the heart of the Royal Mile and near the spectacular St. Giles Cathedral.
While the restaurant has not been around since medieval times, it certainly harkens back to the heritage of Edinburgh. Historically, Luckenbooths were the small lock-up booths that sold goods along the Royal Mile. The restaurant is operated by the Bon Vivant Group, which operates three other popular venues in the city.
Despite both a busy street and a busy day, we were able to get in with a group of four with no reservation and no problem, sitting outside on a beautiful, if slightly windy, day. Edinburgh is a vibrant place, and, on the odd days when it isn’t raining, a seat on the patio is always a great way to enjoy the atmosphere of the historic city. The wait staff was both efficient and engaging; Scotland is famous for its friendly people.
The dinner menu, of course, offers Breaded Campbells Black Haggis, as well as pan-fried Belhaven haddock fishcake and roast Scottish lamb rump. But the centerpiece of the menu is the steaks – 35-day dry-aged, pasture-fed, Black Gold Angus, seasoned with beef fat and Blackthorn salt. The beef is sourced from John Gilmour Butchers, a third-generation business established in 1946 when the patriarch, Willam Gilmore, returned from the war having flown with the RAF. The beef is selected from small-batch, sustainable farms that grass feed the animals throughout the summer and use silage in winter.
After the obligatory haggis appetizer, which was delightfully savory, I had the ribeye, rare, with whisky peppercorn sauce – it did not disappoint. The fork-tender beef was perfectly done, and the sauce added a wonderful aroma and a nice bite. It was served with a small salad, roasted portobello mushroom and a generous slice of roasted Scottish heirloom tomato. Friends had the Denver cut and an 8-oz. sirloin. The one outlier in the group chose the chicken and portobello mushroom pie with whole grain mustard and tarragon cream sauce.
Of course there was a fine selection of beers available, as well as the quaint local spirit called “Scotch,” a good companion to a well-cut, well-aged, well-cooked steak.
We very much enjoyed our dinner. Luckenbooths is an all-day restaurant if you fancy a full Scottish breakfast or a hardy Tweed Valley Beef burger at lunch, as well as the ubiquitous UK Sunday Roast with Yorkshire pudding.
While enjoyed by locals, Luckenbooths is really a place for tourists, and the prices, in pounds sterling, while not absurd, are what you’d expect of a tourist destination on the Royal Mile. If you happen to be walking the Royal Mile and have a hankering for great beef and/or traditional Scottish fare, it is definitely worth the visit.
